Home » Harvesting respect: How the Hmong taught me the true value of rice

Harvesting respect: How the Hmong taught me the true value of rice

There are travel moments that stay with you forever. For me, one of those moments happened in the breathtaking rice terraces of Mu Cang Chai in northern Vietnam. High in the mountains, the Hmong people have turned the steep hills into an endless staircase of green and gold. Their patience, precision, and hard work left me speechless.

As a sushi chef, rice is my world. But standing here among the terraces, watching how every grain begins its journey, gave me a completely new perspective. It’s one thing to cook rice perfectly—it’s another to see how it’s born.

From seed to sprout: How the Hmong begin their work

When the first rains arrive, the Hmong start preparing the land. With simple wooden tools and the help of their water buffaloes, they turn muddy soil into flat, mirror-like terraces. Each level holds the rainwater, shimmering like liquid glass beneath the mountain sky.

They first grow the rice in small nursery beds. Once the shoots are strong enough, the villagers replant them by hand—one by one—into the large, flooded terraces. It’s repetitive, slow work, but it’s done with complete focus and care. Watching it reminded me of the same calm and rhythm I feel when I shape sushi. Every move matters.

Growing with the seasons

Over the next few months, the rice fields come alive. The Hmong watch the water carefully, making sure it flows evenly through each terrace. They pull weeds by hand and use natural fertilizers from their animals. Nothing goes to waste.

During this time, the entire community works together. Kids laugh and play in the fields, while older generations share stories and advice. Life and farming are completely connected here—it’s a perfect balance between people and nature.

The harvest: Hard work and heart

When we arrived, it was harvest time. The Hmong cut the rice with small sickles, tie it into bundles, and lay it out to dry in the sun. You see golden sheaves everywhere—on the terraces, on rooftops, along paths, and beside their wooden houses.

Then comes the part that truly amazed me: threshing. With rhythmic movements, they beat the bundles against wooden boards to free the grains. The sound echoes across the valley, a mix of effort, laughter, and pride.

I got to try it myself, and wow—it’s tough! But at the same time, it felt incredibly real. You understand the value of every grain once you’ve held it in your hands, covered in dust and sunlight.

The meaning of rice for the Hmong people

What struck me most is that the rice here is not for export. It’s grown mainly for their own families—for survival and tradition. Each grain represents weeks of labor, teamwork, and patience. Nothing about it is industrial. Everything is done by hand, with love and respect.

As a chef, this experience hit me deeply. I’ve always respected rice, but now it feels almost sacred. Every bowl of sushi rice in my kitchen is part of a story that begins here—in the muddy terraces of Vietnam, with people who work the land like their ancestors did hundreds of years ago.

Why every chef should see this once

When the sun started to set, the terraces glowed golden. I stood there quietly, thinking about the long journey of each grain—from mountain soil to my cutting board. It’s humbling and inspiring at the same time.

Every chef, every food lover, should witness this at least once in their life. Not from a book or a documentary, but in person—standing knee-deep in the mud, hearing the laughter of the farmers, and feeling the rhythm of their work.

Because once you’ve seen how rice truly grows, you’ll never look at a single grain the same way again. 🌾

Hi, I'm Rik!

Sushi chef and founder of the School of Sushi. Making your own sushi is easier and more fun than you think! Through workshops and online courses, I’ll show you how to roll delicious sushi for your friends & family. Ready to roll?